Friday, August 05, 2005

Boogie Boardin'

It's all nice and peaceful and you're just out there, bobbing up and down on the waves as they come in slow and curl under you. You're chatting with your buddies about how nice it is to have sunshine today and how quiet it is out here compared to the clamor of the house. You're way out, three quarters down the pier and it's perfect. Then you see it. The wave starts to build up on itself in the distance and it looks for all the world like it's gaining speed. It's coming, climbing, way over your head and now it's right on top of you. The chatting stops in the middle of a sentence as everyone turns toward the beach and starts paddling and kicking like a madman. And when you hit it just right, and it surges underneath you, carrying you to the top and there is that moment when you're looking straight down at the water far beneath you and you start to drop towards it and you ARE gaining speed and the whitecap comes up behind you and over you and drives you like a bullet out of a gun and you just ride it...well, there just ain't nothin' like it in all of God's green earth.

So what am I doing inside typing?

3 Comments:

At 5:38 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

We discovered the joys of boogie boardin' last year in Delaware with a borrowed board. Or was it borrowed boogie?

We had so much fun we bought our own at the beach shop before we left town.

What are you doing reading this? Get out there and get on with the boogie!

 
At 5:41 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Me again, failed to notice you were back. I guess you could still get on with the boogie!

 
At 6:33 AM, Blogger Brady said...

Ah, the beach.

Waves are great. Snorkling in the bay is great fun, without the waves, of course.

The sound of the sea, that's good. Even in the winter.

Glad you had fun.

 

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